A Danish writer, Martin A. Hansen developed a thesis stating that:
There has been a trade route, a military route and a pilgrimage route across Zealand, Denmark. Through wetlands, bogs, meadows, fields and forests.
“Not just a wheel track or horse trail, but a wide range of paths with shifts from century to millennium. It is traces of the first mound builders, the masters of dolmens, the passage graves, it is the Stone Age monuments on the valley stretches down toward the river estuaries, it is the elevated Bronze Age mounds, and finally, the Iron Age and Viking Age settlement and burial sites.” 1
1 Lethrica, The Historical Societies in Lejre Municipality, Volume 3, No. 8.
Years ago I decided to examing this 64 km trail. It was a joyful exploration of an area enriched with historical tales and great beauty. The walks became a beautiful journey through time and place. Unforgettable visits to the Vikings’ old port, Vellerup Vig; the hills in Egholm Forest with a view of Dronningedyssen towards Orø; crossing through Kyndeløse Nordmark with pleasant farmers and happy cows. Through the atmospheric Ejby Ådal and further up to Dyrehaven with a view of Tempelkrog. Continuing through Rye with its many well mounds. Out through Hestehaven and a detour down to the beautiful Aastrup and Elverdamsåen. Past the always full church in Kirke Såby. Over Roskilde Bakke and Kirkebakke to Helligrende and on to Abbetved, where I can still hear the call of the crows in the crisp autumn air. The thunderstorm raged as I walked along the beautiful path towards Sagnlandet Lejre. I could make out the Sacrifice Marsh between the trees, and the thunderstorm added to the scenery. The beautiful Knapsø with the grey-throated loons which emit strange cries. Through Herthadalen, where the first constitutional meeting was held on the 5th anniversary in 1854. Further through the historic Gl. Lejre towards Ramsødalen.
Years back I had the privilege to get a mail from Norwegian Silje, who was looking for attractive nature walks close to Copenhagen
Silje’s mail goes like this:
“I’ve just moved to Copenhagen from Norway and now I need a bit of nature 😊
Can you advise me on a hiking trip, a route of two day trips with an overnight stay in a cabin?
I live in Copenhagen and I’m thinking of taking the train out somewhere, a good long day trip, sleeping over in a cabin, then a good long trip the next day and then taking the train home to Copenhagen.
Possibly if you can advise on a website with tips for routes, ala the tourist association in Norway.”
My answer to Silje and everyone else who wants inspiration for hiking: We have wonderful nature in close proximity to Copenhagen with many marked routes. We lack DNT’s cabin system, but there are hostels, B&Bs, shelters and tent pitches established in collaboration with the Danish Nature Agency At the bottom of my post I will mention long-distance hiking trails, but for a start and in future posts, I will recommend the trips you can do in one day and still get home and get some sleep the same day.
And to you Silje, a place where you can go in a hurry when the longing for Norway’s mountains is pressing in. I recommend that you get to know the forest, Gribskov. It gives you an unimaginable possibilities for a cracking walk.
There are 4 hiking leaflets about the forest. There are marked yellow routes. You are probably used to the use of maps and compasses, and it will not be difficult for you to find your way around the forest.
The advantage of living in Copenhagen is the close public transport network. This means that you can take the train from Copenhagen Central Station, and 57 minutes later you are in the middle of Gribskov, Denmark’s 4th largest forest.
Here I would recommend that you acquire, Rejsekort. You travel reasonably cheap that way, but you must remember to check in and out.
Your question immediately made me think of Esrum Sø. One spring day I started in Gribskov and continued up along Lake Esrum and further up through an area called Russia. I took the train home from Dronningmølle station. Some of the following photos are from that trip.
Rejsevejledning til Fruebjerg: Fra Hovedbanegården i København tager det 57 minutter, så står du midt i Gribskov på Gribsø St, vel og mærke på gunstige tidspunkter. Herfra udgår en mærket rute op over Fruebjerg, se: Skovtursfolder. Ruten er afmærket med gule mærker. Tag et print af kortet eller gå på nærmeste bibliotek, hvor de har hele landets vandretursfoldere stående til fri afbenyttelse. Her er et link til den tur: På afmærket sti til Fruebjerg.
Røde Dam, Gribskov
Hærvejen er en asfaltvej, der begynder ved Kagerup Station og fortsætter ind i skoven til det gamle militæranlæg, hvor Multebjerg Radarstation lå engang.
Her ender Hærvejen ved det gamle militæranlæg.
Nordlige del af Esrum sø
Nordlige del af Esrum Sø
Esrum Kloster
Ved Esrum kloster
Ved Esrum kanal
Esrum Sø
Sti ved Esrum sø
Rusland, tæt på Dronningmølle med labyrinter af kæmpe ene buske og statueparken af Rudolph Tegner.
Silje skriver til mig:
“Jeg er nyflyttet til København fra Norge og nå trenger jeg til litt natur 😊
Kan du tipse meg om en vandretur, en rute på to dagsturer med en overnatting i hytte?
Jeg bor i København og tenker meg å ta toget ut et sted, en god lang dagstur, sove over i en hytte, så en god lang tur dagen efter og så ta toget hjem til København.
Eventuelt om du kan tipse om en nettside med tips til ruter, ala turistforeningen i Norge.”
Mit svar til Silje og alle andre, som ønsker inspiration til vandring: Vi har fantastisk natur i tæt afstand på København med mange afmærkede ruter. Vi mangler DNT´s hyttesystem, men der er vandrehjem, B&B, shelters og teltpladser etableret i samarbejde med Naturstyrelsen.
Nederst i mit indlæg vil jeg omtale fjernvandreveje, men til en start og i de kommende indlæg, vil jeg anbefale de ture, I kan gå på én dag og stadigvæk nå hjem og sove.
Og til dig Silje, et sted, hvor du kan tage hen i en fart, når længslen efter Norges fjelde trænger sig på.
Jeg anbefaler, du lærer Gribskov at kende. Det giver dig uanede muligheder for smukke vandreture.
Der eksisterer 4 vandretur foldere over skoven. Her er der afmærkede gule ruter. Du er nok vant til at bruge kort og kompas, og så vil det ikke være svært at finde rundt mellem de afmærkede ruter og på den måde komme hele skoven rundt, eller så meget som der er tid og lyst til.
Fordelen ved at bo i København er det tætte offentlige trafiknet. Det indebærer, at du kan tage toget fra Københavns Hovedbanegård, og 57 minutter efter står du midt inde i Gribskov, Danmarks 4. største skov.
Her vil jeg anbefale, at du anskaffer dig Rejsekort. Du rejser rimeligt billigt på den måde, men du skal huske at tjekke ind og ud.
Dit spørgsmål fik mig straks til at tænke på Esrum Sø. En forårsdag startede jeg i Gribskov og fortsatte op langs med Esrum Sø og videre op igennem Rusland. Jeg tog toget hjem fra Dronningmølle station. En del af de efterfølgende billeder er fra den tur.
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Når jeg er returneret efter vandring i Norge eller i Sverige, er det ofte havet, jeg søger mod. Her er det store kig, stilhed og plads til eftertanke.
Sjællands nordkyst byder på flotte strande. En vandretur jeg altid er glad for er mellem Tisvildeleje og Liseleje.
Man kan tage toget til Frederiksværk og bus til Liseleje. Herefter går turen langs med en vidunderlig strand. Er du frisk er det ved at være tiden for en svømmetur. Stranden er rigtig god.
Længere fremme kan du vælge at gå ind i Tisvilde Hegn og Troldeskoven. Jeg vil dog anbefale, at du lærer skoven at kende, før du lægger ud med turen fra Liseleje.
Tisvilde Hegn er visse steder behersket af elverfolket, hvilket gør turen meget lang 😊
Det er et sagn, men der eksisterer et bestemt sted i skoven, jeg ofte er gået vild.
Til sidst skal jeg beklage min manglende evne til at afgrænse mig. Det er mere tiden end mangel på turmateriale, der sætter en stopper for dette indlæg. Håber, at du Silje og andre der måtte være nået hertil i læsningen kan bruge mit indlæg til noget.
Kommenter gerne på indlægget med flere ideer.
Når I planlægger tur, så tjek om der er planlagt banearbejde!
Maybe we’ll have snow next week. At the moment, it’s a lovely spring. People are enjoying the outdoors and the sun. Years ago I was on a great walk at Sjaelssoe. Steep hills, small springs, pastures, winding paths and a wooden pier for ‘happy swimmers’. The temperature varied a lot depending on whether I was in the woods or on the sunny meadow. It was bitterly cold in the wood by the springs, and the lake didn’t beckon for a swim, on the contrary. But the walk was worth remembering ❤
The place where you lose the trail is not necessarily the place where it ends.
Tom Brown, Jr.
We met them at the lake. They were camping for the night. Few words were exchanged between them, each knew what the other was doing and vice versa.
I took a picture of their view from the tent.
It doesn’t get much better! – The view I mean 🙂
When was the last time you spent a quiet moment just doing nothing – just sitting and looking at the sea, or watching the wind blowing the tree limbs, or waves rippling on a pond, a flickering candle or children playing in the park?
Ralph Marston
Perhaps you have heard of it before: A sacred hole tree.
If you have diseases or ailments, you must crawl through the hole in the tree.
There is a tradition of being naked because it is a kind of rebirth.
When you climb through the hole, you have to sacrifice a piece of clothing to the tree as thanks.
Hole trees are primarily healing trees, but often they are also taboo trees that one must not harm.
I found this tree on the meadow and was content to take this picture as the only action 😊
This year, nature is more beautiful than ever.
Today I came past the lake, Hjortekæret which some of you might recognise again.
The light changes a lot, which makes the lake a lovely motif.
The lake is a popular destination for some walkers.
Children might fantasise while the adults enjoy the tranquillity.
Read about my fantastic experiences here
But it isn’t easy, said Pooh. Because poetry and hums aren’t things which you get, they’re things which get you.
And all you can do is to go where they can find you.
A.A. Milne, Creator of Winnie the Pooh
The inner – what is it?
if not intensified sky,
hurled through with birds
and deep with
the winds of homecoming.
Rainer Marie Rilke
Furesøen is Denmark’s deepest lake and a wonderful natural area.
Opposite Næsseslottet, grebes have found their favourite nesting area.
The birds are busy courting each other by shaking their head and bowing in an advanced mirror dance.
HANNA'S WALK 
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